Hamilton (Carl, Gustaf, Gilbert)
What did Hamilton mean for me before becoming a watch collector? Secret agent. Let me explain. One of Sweden’s best and certainly most famous journalists, Jan Guillou, started writing spy novels that masqueraded as social and political commentary. There were about 10 of them ranging from mid 80s to the 90s. Well written and some of the best selling books of all time in Sweden, they certainly made an impression on me in my mid to late teens. The complex combination of an under cover military agent that trained in the US Navy Seals program, had a flirtation with communism in university, with a surname that is part of Swedish nobility from as far back as the 17th century…sounds ridiculous but it made for great entertainment and also a stealthy way to get Guillou’s left leaning views out there.
So anyway, frequenting watch communities, I soon came across Hamilton watches. Turns out, this was an American watch company that produced its first watch in 1893. It’s quite interesting that we think of Switzerland as the country that produces the best watches in the world, but back in the day, it was the Brits and Americans that made some of the best watches. |
The brand has several claims to fame but I think it’s fair to say that supplying watches to the American Military forces during WW1 & WW2 is what really put this brand on the map. Beautiful, classic field watch designs that were all about legibility and sturdiness (for obvious reasons) is what American soldiers were provided with. It’s easy to imagine how much these watches would be connected to their experiences, for those soldiers lucky enough to return from the wars. Being the generation of men that did not openly speak about much at all, let alone the atrocities of war, to anyone, there does seem to be a number of watches around that were only discovered by relatives after the death of their Grandfathers.
So, whilst the history is sad in many ways, the Hamilton field watches are frequently brough up as perfect examples of field watch designs, and whilst fairly utilitarian, often complimented on their beautiful design. I started researching and eventually decided to pull the trigger on a Khaki Automatic, the slightly larger (and therefor a bit controversial) 42mm version. |
My impressions after a few months of owning & wearing the watch
A proper field watch is no larger than 38mm, everyone knows that and buying any other size is blasphemy. I understand the reasoning, but I already have another watch with the exact dimensions of the 38mm version, the Baltic Bicompax.
I’m also rather tall with beautifully sculpted musc….Ok that was a dream, but my point is, I quite like the 40-42cm watches on two conditions. They can’t be too thick and the lugs can’t be so short that the overall proportion is lost. Receiving the watch, it’s difficult to not agonise about one’s choice simply by knowing that there is another version. So I did just that, agonise. Over time though, I really started to feel that the watch size really worked. I’m not storming Omaha beach in this, more likely leading my fearless hound to the (non) treacherous rivers of my hometown and the only enemy in sight is the odd magpie. That means that I’m not likely to get caught in any equipment or bang the watch into anything. If I was buying a 38mm version of the Hamilton Khaki, I actually think the hand wound version (Hamilton Khaki Field) looks fantastic and that’d be my choice. That also has no date complication which results in an even cleaner design.
As I always mention, I do appreciate good packaging. This watch comes in a faux wood box that is actually really nice and those Hamilton logos look awesome. I think A for effort here. Opening up the box, you’re presented with the watch on a very thick and very brown leather strap. For me personally, the sooner that strap came off the better which turned out to be quite a painful process. Initiate Operation Band-be-gone. Always a hairy moment to attempt to get between strap and metal without scratching anything, but mission accomplished. The watch now alternates between the Erika MN Sahara Strap and a Black Strapify MN strap (see review here). I think a military green MN strap would be ideal for this watch, it is indeed a strap monster.
And that red detail on the seconds hand, being the only bit of colour here, a great little red arrow and a tiny lollipop counterweight on the other end, this adds so much charm to the watch.
Overall, this is a classic dial with so much texture and attention to detail. It’s deceptively simple at first glance with much more details revealed over time. I agree that every collector needs one in their collection. |
Wearing the watch, I can honestly say it didn’t come off my wrists for a couple of weeks solid. It’s really true what they say, it is a great dial design.
The more you wear it and look at it, the more you appreciate it. It’s worth analysing since there are elements like the 24 hour inner ring that is really quite pointless, to me anyway that grew up with 24 hour digital clocks all around me. But, the combination of the inner ring with the large Arabic numbers on the outer ring and the minute markers, all white on black – just gorgeous. I even like the date complication in white. If that was black on white, it’d disappear. It’s really the hands that are the stars here. Those syringe style hands are great from a distance and even prettier when you get close. You don’t really see the needle tips until you get really close but legibility is still an absolute A+. |
The crown is rather large and solid and is not of the screw down type. This is a 100 m waterproof watch and it should be fine to get exposed to water but that crown is quite exposed. I’m not sure why there aren’t any crown guards, it seems even small ones could look pretty good? It’s nice and solid, setting the time, date and hand winding is nothing but a pleasure. It’s also signed which is a lovely detail.
Turning the watch around, you’ll find a display case, showing off that Hamilton H-10 automatic movement. Since Hamilton is now Swiss owned and part of the Swatch group, access to the ETA movements is easy and I understand that this is a modified ETA 2824-2 movement. Modified in that it offers an enormous 80 hour power reserve. That’s the sort of thing you have to pay a lot of money for on more exclusive watches, it’s a great little feature to add a touch of smug on your (face) dial. The signed rotor is a nice touch and it’s all nice enough, however – I feel a little unnecessary all up. I’d personally love a closed back case with some info on Hamilton’s extensive history in supplying the military. The dive, moon, racing watches…they all do this nicely and I think with this sort of rugged field watch aesthetics, the display case is not essential. That said, it’s always nice to see cogs and lovely little details in a mechanical movement so it’s not worth complaining about (despite doing just that, ahem..). |
Strap
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“Well what about Lume, sir? I need to know what time it is when I am about to jump out of an airplane in the dark night, over Normandy”
Ah, you’re in safe hands here. I both love the lume and am slightly disappointed. The minute and hour hands clearly have a good layer of lume and they do stay visible even after a few hours. Not Seiko levels visible, but visible. So what’s wrong with that? Nothing, but the thing is – the large numbers also have lume and they look FANTASTIC when fully charged…but fades yet so quickly, like a lonely signal flare fired by an infantry man awaiting pickup... So that bit of lume is just there to tease you really, just a quick flirt before it disappears into the dark night like a friendly Fräulein behind enemy lines…..Sorry, I’ll stop now. |
Final Words
It’s pretty easy to heap superlatives on the Hamilton Khaki, it’s a beautiful and classic design with some astonishing specs for the money. In fact, I’d say this watch would be good value even at twice the money considering what you’re getting here. Seiko is often used to illustrate great value for money but this watch offers Sapphire crystal front and back, an 80 hour power reserve, signed crown, decent lume and a strong brand history. There are no Seikos in this price range that offers that level of hardware, the return on investment here is quite exemplary.
The 42mm version fits me fine with my 19cm wrist but anything smaller than that, I’d go the 38mm version that looks exactly the same. Those long lugs will help with the overall proportions. I’m a sucker for long lugs as it is and this watch do them so well. I love wearing the watch and whilst I have no ancestors that fought in WW1 or 2, and therefor no immediate connection to a military watch, I’m forming my own memories with it and I can’t see it ever leaving my collection. I’m off on a recon now with Private Macy the cocker spaniel, what she lacks in communication she certainly makes up for in butt sniffing. Cheers, Esbjorn |
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