The 300 you can wear..
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Homages. Some people frown upon them, others don’t mind. My view is that if the original is either too difficult to source due to scarcity or simply too expensive for us mere mortals, then it’s quite ok to consider a lovingly created homage.
One such watch is the Omega Seamaster 300. This watch is so special that it even has its own (excellent) dedicated collector’s website detailing the many versions, a hugely impressive site to lose a few hours in. So, if you owned one of these, would you slap it on whilst taking the dog for a walk? Nope, I don’t think you would since the monetary value alone would mean that it’s probably locked up in a safe somewhere. This is a real shame since this is a stunning design, which is sadly out of reach for the average collector. So again, this is where the concept of a homage comes in handy. |
What to do then? There are a few brands that make homages to this model, Borealis being one, but from my own research it appears that Hong Kong based brand Helson makes the best homages. This is all subjective of course but small details such as the cursive font at the 6pm position makes a difference. As per usual, I watched every YouTube video and read every article before purchasing my own copy, but there aren’t many of them. So if you’re in the process of doing exactly that, then I hope I can help you make your decision.
Helson had been on my radar for a while with their Sharkdiver, but mainly for that watch’s super cool bracelet. They are a microbrand renowned for their high quality watches but also, as per many microbrands, often sell out and you simply have to wait for more stock or source a second hand one. I was lucky enough to get a new copy and with a 15% discount promotion so here’s what I think about the Helson Sharkmaster 300. |
My impressions owning & wearing the watch.
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First, packaging. Helson sends all their watches via FedEx so the tracking is easy and carefree. Due to the current state of the world, they package did seem to go round in circles in southern China for a while, but in about a week, the box was in my hand here in Australia.
The Sharkmaster 300 is safely wrapped up in a black leather watch roll with red lining. Great touch and I would gladly use this travelling. The lovely bracelet is already attached but you do also get a decent rubber dive strap. The rubber strap has a signed buckle and that’s all I’ll say about it. It’s not the showstopper here but it’s appreciated all the same. You also get several spare spring bars for the bracelet. |
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Let’s talk about the case first. Since this is a homage, it’s modelled on a flawless design and therefore I already love it. The classic Omega twist on the lugs in combination with the bezel that appears to float on top of the lugs, it all works so incredibly well.
The watch looks awesome in hand and on wrist. Could it be mistaken for an Omega with a different logo? No. I intend to ruthlessly point out some shortcomings of the watch, but I will make it crystal clear here right from the start: I have not stopped wearing this since I received it. The classic, short Omega lug design with the downwards angle is here and it’s rather sharp underneath. We’re talking a very sharp edge here, not sharp enough to cut yourself but you’ll certainly not enjoy running a finger along this part of the watch case. This is the only part of the case that has such a flaw though and since it doesn’t immediately rest on your skin, I think it can be forgiven. |
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Both the dial and bezel is again a homage design and is already a classic. The large numbers on the bezel in combination with the printed batons on the dial works so well. To me, it screams “classy vintage diver design, right here!” and I often look down on my wrist to admire it (I know, weirdo).
I elected for the version with no date. I always do, not interested in this complication if I can avoid it. This gives plenty of space for the text to breathe. We have the correct typeface of the numbers at 3,6,9 & 12 and the Helson Automatic logo which actually complements this vintage design incredibly well. You may feel differently but to me, it works. What I really appreciate though is the exact cursive typeface copy of the Sharkmaster 300 just above the 6 position. The Borealis does not do this and I also feel the Borealis logo does not fit the overall design. Helson has nailed the dial. |
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The bezel was awful at first. Nasty, ratchety movement that I simply left alone for fear of falling out of love. It’s loosened up now and has a better feel to it but it’s still not a great bezel mechanism. That’s ok though, I mean really who cares right?
Well, it’s a fine line with these things. We’re fickle us watch people and every small detail that’s not quite right could be enough of a reason for the watch to go on a one way journey to your preferred selling platform. The bezel mechanism doesn’t bother me too much, but I don’t love it. Another classic Omega touch is the slightly wider lug on the side of the crown, designed to act as a crown guard. It is implemented beautifully here and the crown has the right amount of protection versus ease of use. It’s easy to unscrew and it pops nicely. It’s also easy to screw back in post winding/setting so well done here. It’s a signed crown, a distinct and large H which looks great. |
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When you do pop this crown, you are manipulating a great automatic movement in the ETA 2824-2. It’s getting harder and harder for microbrands to source ETAs but Helson clearly manages to do so although perhaps this is one of the reasons it’s usually sold out.
Based on my ownership, I doubt very much that there’s much regulating of the movement by Helson before installation. It runs within the stated ETA tolerances of +/-12-30 seconds a day so I do find myself checking it at least once a week to ensure it keeps good time. It is what it is, you could always go and have it regulated by any watchmaker if you are bothered by this. |
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Turning the watch over, the most eye-catching detail is the engraving of what looks like a great white shark. It’s alright. We also have a serial number and some of the usual stuff here, one notable detail being the 300m water resistance.
Would any diver take this diving? I doubt it but there’s certainly no reason not to do it as far as I can tell, especially considering the excellent lume. But more on that later. |
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The bracelet is a big selling point here so I will spend some time on it. It’s fully articulated, meaning it is extremely flexible and moves with your wrist freely, with solid metal links. It’s very comfortable to wear and you get a sense of quality here. That’s until you run your finger over that break between the end links and the rest of the bracelet. The end links on both sides have a fairly rough edge.
This wouldn’t matter so much if it wasn’t for the fact that this area tends to be where you grab the watch to adjust it on the wrist. Again, not sharp enough to cut your skin, but this certainly feels like a detail skipped due to budget. There’s a solid, milled clasp and the two button buckle releases and attaches securely. There is a diver’s extension, and this is my last niggle. The mechanism is good but there are more rough edges here, bad enough to scratch skin. It’s a bit of a recurring themes this and one I feel should be addressed. Surely It can’t be that tough to give these edges a once over with a fine sandpaper? I intend to do this myself, but I’d expect this 5 minute job done for me at the price. The links are held together by spring bars so quite fiddly to adjust since you need depress the springs on both ends of the spring bar, to precisely slot the links into place. It’s really a two-person job. The individual, solid links are soft to the touch,nicely polished with no sharp edges, they are genuinely great. |
Movement
Movement: 25 Jewel Swiss ETA 2824-2 Strap & Bracelet
20x18 mm stainless steel bracelet with solid endlinks and removable links / 18mm ratcheting clasp Case
miscellaneous
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Finally, the lume. It’s in fact awesome. This is apparently a bit of a Helson signature and it’s the best lume I’ve ever experienced on any watch. Once fully charged, I reckon it could be visible from space, or at least from my neighbour’s house.
It fades of course but it’s easily visible all night, and not just the dial and hands, but the bezel and all markers also. Impressive. |
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Final Words
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Do you feel I’ve been a bit hard on this watch? Has it put you off?. I hope not. It’s worth pointing out the cut corners but here’s the truth. They don’t matter. The watch wears so nicely and I’d say the only unpleasant feature that bothers me is the dive extension’s very rough edges. And really, why am I even messing with that anyway? I’ve worn a wetsuit less than a dozen times in my life.
Also, since some of the details of the watch are a bit rough and ready overall I don’t hesitate to use it as a daily beater and I don’t care about buckle scratches nor minor scratches on the case. It’s a solid steel, beautiful watch modeled on a legend and I’m absolutely comfortable wearing it every day regardless of what I’m doing. And that’s the thing, I do have a lot of nice watches but this one has not left my wrist more than a handful (ahem) of times since I received it a couple of months ago. If that is not the ultimate verdict here, I don’t know what is. |
19 cm wrist
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